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deepavali

Name: Deepavali
Grade: ?
Type: Trad
Facing:South / SE
Length:1000+ Feet
Pitches:5-7 Pitches (With a 70 meter rope, it can be done in 5 pitches)

Climbs nearby : simple monkey, beladingalu, Mohana

Location : This route is towards the left of beladingalu and is about 50 mtrs from it. The route ends in the gully ( this gully is similar to the Mohana/ Simple monkey gully but is towards the left of it.) Left of the crack is the main hill face which has the temple on top. To reach the base, walk up to the post office and take a right. The path moves towards the left and leads to the base of Deepavali.

Description : The route starts along the right edge of the gully. There are good size 1 trad placements along the right crack. At the end of the crack, there is a bonzai and a small ledge where we can sit and belay. It is also possible to set an anchor at the crack on the right side. The second pitch is a traverse that can be done below the ledge. The ledge itself, is a medium grade traversing route. After the ledge, the route proceeds up to a nice belay area where we can set up anchor and then stand and belay. The third pitch is a slab climb along the water patch. This pitch is poorely protected and can be a little scary. However the gradient of the third pitch is not too steep and we can do it without a fall. The slab ends with the beginning of another crack. At this point, we can place ~ size one trad pieces or chalk nuts. At the end of the crack is a large bonzai, below the bonzai we can set up anchor, it is also possible to climb further (if we have a 60+ meter rope) till we get to the ledge where we can stand and anchor. However we anchored at the bonzai and then climbed till the ledge. This small climb became the 4th pitch. At the ledge, we need to traverse to the left along the ledge till it leads to the base of the gully. (It is also possible to go straight up the flaring crack rather than traversing to the left. This variation is difficult with the starting few moves at 6b).At the end of the ledge, is the start for the fifth pitch. The starting is a little tricky with a few reachy moves and then a good crack. Size 2 and higher size friends can be placed in this crack.The fifth pitch is the crux but can be protected reasonably well. We used size 3 cams in the crack after which we could use size one cams. The fifth pitch leads to the gully from where we can sit and belay. The sixth pitch starts from the gully and the route is quite easy and at some places is just a scramble up. The sixth pitch ends at the end of the gully. To start the seventh pitch we need to climb along the right and through the thorny bush. When we climbed the rope used to get caught in the bushes, hence we traverse to the far right and then went straight up. On the right side there is a crack we can place size 2 gear. The seventh pitch ends at a point where there are several boulders. From here, we can rope down and scramble to the top.

Start of the route

deepavali.txt · Last modified: 2015/02/15 14:04 by ravee